Officer's Dress For Foreign Service 1896-1902

[Albert J]

The RQM, QSVC, Frogsmile, GrantR Canada, Jocktamson, Acanthus,

Happy to share with you all some rare bits. Many thanks for all your kind words.
Albert J

[jf42]

I am intrigued by these references to 1899 pattern two pocket serge frocks. I have been wondering for quite some time about occasional images of what appeared to be khaki tunics from this period, with prominent buttons and minus the distinctive breast pockets which characterise this stage in the evolution of what we might call Early Modern uniforms. The khaki 'tunic,' as I saw it, seemed to be a strange hangover from the experiments of 1878-85.

My understanding was that the British went into the South African campaign in the 1896 khaki drill foreign service uniform and that this was then supplemented by a khaki serge version that was warmer and harder wearing- effectively the forerunner of khaki Service Dress.

The existence of the 1899 Serge Frock would seem to contradict that account- which I gleaned from Barthorp "British Infantry Uniforms". Referring to that work before I posted this, I find myself looking at a Pierre Turner illustration which it seems I can have never fully focussed on. This shows a Gordon Hldr in a Serge Frock but there is no reference to it in the caption. I also realise that the dishevelled BW squad in a photo that I know well are also wearing the frock, which I had not appreciated before. Now I am seeing them everywhere!

What is the story of the introduction of this uniform- were there matching trousers?

[Jonathan]

I just want to echo the complimentary comments already made--this is a fantastic thread and I appreciate everyone's outstanding contributions.

[Albert J]

I am intrigued by these references to 1899 pattern two pocket serge frocks. I have been wondering for quite some time about occasional images of what appeared to be khaki tunics from this period, with prominent buttons and minus the distinctive breast pockets which characterize this stage in the evolution of what we might call Early Modern uniforms. The khaki 'tunic,' as I saw it, seemed to be a strange hangover from the experiments of 1878-85.

My understanding was that the British went into the South African campaign in the 1896 khaki drill foreign service uniform and that this was then supplemented by a khaki serge version that was warmer and harder wearing- effectively the forerunner of khaki Service Dress.

The existence of the 1899 Serge Frock would seem to contradict that account- which I gleaned from Barthorp "British Infantry Uniforms". Referring to that work before I posted this, I find myself looking at a Pierre Turner illustration which it seems I can have never fully focused on. This shows a Gordon Hldr in a Serge Frock but there is no reference to it in the caption. I also realize that the dishevelled BW squad in a photo that I know well are also wearing the frock, which I had not appreciated before. Now I am seeing them everywhere!

What is the story of the introduction of this uniform- were there matching trousers?

Hi jf42,

The 1899 pattern serge frock is the harder wearing serge that replaced the 1896 khaki drill. Barthorp's description of Figure 72 in his book "British Infantry Uniforms Since 1660 does state, and I quote..."The same dress was worn in the opening stages of The South African War but the cotton drill material was soon replaced by warmer and harder wearing serge, as in Fig 71". I suspect this is a misprint. As the Pvt. in fig 72 is wearing the the harder wearing 1899 pattern serge. The officer is wearing what appears to be illustrated as the serge recommended for officer's in the Dress Regs. 1900. Of which I've posted some examples.

The 1899 pattern serge is based, in cut and type of material used, on the Officer's undress serge of 1872, colloquially known as the "India Pattern" frock. I've attached a side by side photo for comparison.

Serge trousers were also issued with this set in the same cut, and appointments as the drill material trousers. I have attached a photo of a pair of drab serge trousers from 1900. Officer's trousers would have had removable foot straps. Worn to maintain a smart appearance.

Also attached is a photo from the NAM collection showing the resupply of the 17th mounted infantry. Note the stacks of 1899 pattern serge, FS helmets, and water bottles.

A major complaint of the "ranks" regarding the 1899 pattern serge was the lack of breast pockets. Some soldiers went as far as adding these in the field as illustrated by my two photos, one of the Northants, the other a sgt. from the Dorsets. Both are wearing the 1899 serge with upper pockets added, as well as serge trousers. The sgt. of the Dorsets is also wearing the bandolier sanctioned in June 1901 List of Changes.. article 10764. His slouch hat with regimental badge is on the ground.

Uniform concerns were addressed following the SAW and implemented with the service dress of the next period. Though even these had a few changes of there own, twisted cord shoulder straps, removable shoulder straps. A little out of my area of knowledge.

Albert J

[Albert J]

As previously stated soldiers are going to adapt to the situation they are presented with on Active Service, with or without regards to the Dress Regulations. Here's a few more examples. The top serge frock is as stated in the Dress Regulations for Officer's 1900 and is what I would consider a perfect example of it, however it has loops on the sleeves to accommodate the removable Corporals rank it's pictured with, and without! ( the chevron is not period correct, just applied for the photo).

The third photo shows a standard other ranks khaki drill 1896 pattern frock, but with lower pockets added from another frock or even a kilt apron. A soldier adapting to his situation.

Albert J

Thanks for the kind words Jonathan.

[jf42]

Epiphany. This is like a piece of jigsaw puzzle has fallen into place, after having been missing so long I forgot the gap was there.

I'm still not clear though, was the 1899 jacket in production before the war broke out or was this the khaki serge produced in response to shortcomings of khaki drill that became apparent in the early months of the war as 1899 drew to a close?

And do we know why was it deemed adequate that only officers should have breast pockets. What were the semiotics of that decision?

[Albert J]

The 1899 serge frock was not in production prior to October 12 1899,to the best of my knowledge, and is in fact the the harder wearing serge that was meant to replace the drill frocks based on experiences in the early stages of the war. Production was started at least by December 1899 as the remnants of paper labels in two of the patterns in my possession bear this out. (1899 was the year the pattern was approved and sealed)

Additional pockets on a combat jacket of any nation are a big plus. Without a copy of the sealed pattern or the determining committee factors that led to it's adoption without breast pockets I can only surmise it was a matter of expedience. Many were needed and quickly and breast pockets possibly deemed a luxury not necessary. Factors I myself am still researching... when the first supplies started reaching South Africa as well as the first draughts to arrive wearing them. I hope we both can find an answer. The photo on page 2 of this thread... the 3rd Volunteer Battalion BW taken from " The Muster Roll of Angus", the photo is dated January 24 1900 , all are wearing the 1899 serge frock, except the officer. We know they were being issued relativley quick after approval. ( Frogsmile..where are you!)

Since officer's weren't under the same manufacturing constraints the rank and file were subjected to, and required to provide their own kit for active service, they continued to purchase their kit as per Dress Regulations from the various Military outfitters available to them.
Albert J

[Albert J]

Just found what looks like a potential answer to the "1899 Serge Frock" approval question.

This is a partial re-print of a post in "Gentleman's Military Interest Club", "Boer War Serge Tunics" post # 28 by Joe Sweeney .......Addressed by the ACD on the 6th October 1899 to produce khaki serge versions of the pattern 3901d/1899 Scarlet serge frock and pattern 3919c/1896 of the blue serge trousers. Pattern 4914/1899 was sealed October 10 1899 as...Frock,Khaki,Serge.

Albert J

[Albert J]

A 4 pocket serge frock worn by Sgt. George Francis Bennett "A" Sqd. Natal Carbineers during the siege of Ladysmith. White metal NC shoulder titles and buttons, the NC on the buttons being surmounted by the Imperial Crown. The frock is lined in satin and waxed cotton(sleeves).

AlbertJ

[Albert J]

The final pattern serge before the adoption of the 1903 SD. The frock is to a Sgt. of the Wiltshire Imperial Yeomanry. The interior retains it's ID pocket and field dressing pocket. The ID pocket was not included on the 1903 SD. The shoulder straps were designed to be removable, however I believe this frock made it to South Africa and the uselessness of removable shoulder straps was apparent to a soldier on active service and this trooper stitched them to his frock.

The photo of a group of troopers of the Wiltshire Imperial Yeomanry is from PJ Hawthornthwaite's book "The Boer War ", Uniforms Illustrated no. 19. The trooper in the rear with th "fall" collar is wearing the 1902 pattern serge frock.

AlbertJ

[Frogsmile]

I thought you might be interested to see this Cyclist's version Albert, which going by the cap I take to be around 1905-06? I know it is outside the period you are discussing, but I thought it was an interesting image to see how the wartime dress influenced post-war design, so I hope you will forgive me.

[Frogsmile]

The final pattern serge before the adoption of the 1903 SD. The frock is to a Sgt. of the Wiltshire Imperial Yeomanry. The interior retains it's ID pocket and field dressing pocket. The ID pocket was not included on the 1903 SD. The shoulder straps were designed to be removable, however I believe this frock made it to South Africa and the uselessness of removable shoulder straps was apparent to a soldier on active service and this trooper stitched them to his frock.

The photo of a group of troopers of the Wiltshire Imperial Yeomanry is from PJ Hawthornthwaite's book "The Boer War ", Uniforms Illustrated no. 19. The trooper in the rear with th "fall" collar is wearing the 1902 pattern serge frock.

AlbertJ

Is he perhaps wearing an experimental/trial version of SD, the buttons seem smaller and the serge material thinner, as well as what seems to be the absence of the shoulder reinforcement patches?

[Albert J]

I thought you might be interested to see this Cyclist's version Albert, which going by the cap I take to be around 1905-06? I know it is outside the period you are discussing, but I thought it was an interesting image to see how the wartime dress influenced post-war design, so I hope you will forgive me.

Hi Frogsmile,
No need for forgiveness, it's all uniforms. The shoulder straps appear to be piped, as does the collar and obviously the cuffs. The shoulder straps also appear to have embroidered unit designation also. I have seen maroon embroidered and piped shoulder straps before on khaki serge, minus the frock unfortunately, to the Warwickshire's. Also odd, if the time period you state is correct, the belt clasp appears to be a Victorian Crown??? Hard though to make out on my computer. My 1902 serge shows evidence of the shoulder straps being piped at one time but removed long before I obtained it. In any event my knowledge regarding post 1902 service dress is sadly lacking, and I'm only familiar enough with it to get me in trouble.
Can you share anymore information on this frock? To the best of your knowledge was this issue or experimental?
AlbertJ

[Albert J]

The final pattern serge before the adoption of the 1903 SD. The frock is to a Sgt. of the Wiltshire Imperial Yeomanry. The interior retains it's ID pocket and field dressing pocket. The ID pocket was not included on the 1903 SD. The shoulder straps were designed to be removable, however I believe this frock made it to South Africa and the uselessness of removable shoulder straps was apparent to a soldier on active service and this trooper stitched them to his frock.

The photo of a group of troopers of the Wiltshire Imperial Yeomanry is from PJ Hawthornthwaite's book "The Boer War ", Uniforms Illustrated no. 19. The trooper in the rear with th "fall" collar is wearing the 1902 pattern serge frock.

AlbertJ

Is he perhaps wearing an experimental/trial version of SD, the buttons seem smaller and the serge material thinner, as well as what seems to be the absence of the shoulder reinforcement patches?

If you look close enough, or have Hawthornthwait's book, the shoulder reinforcement is there. I do see it even in the way the photo reproduced and views on-line albeit faintly. It is clear in the book though. The buttons on my frock could have been replaced as they are Queens Crown. I know this style frock to have been in production in 1901, whether or not it was assembled before Victoria's death I can't say with any certainty, however the large buttons have been on there for some time and certainly before I acquired it 20 years ago as they are not the removable type. The serge in the photo doesn't appear any different to me the folds and wrinkling appear like any other serge and not as drill material would wrinkle.
Take another look, let me know if your seeing what I'm seeing. That being said, it could be a trial pattern though, there were several types issued as well as made locally.
AlbertJ

[Frogsmile]

The final pattern serge before the adoption of the 1903 SD. The frock is to a Sgt. of the Wiltshire Imperial Yeomanry. The interior retains it's ID pocket and field dressing pocket. The ID pocket was not included on the 1903 SD. The shoulder straps were designed to be removable, however I believe this frock made it to South Africa and the uselessness of removable shoulder straps was apparent to a soldier on active service and this trooper stitched them to his frock.

The photo of a group of troopers of the Wiltshire Imperial Yeomanry is from PJ Hawthornthwaite's book "The Boer War ", Uniforms Illustrated no. 19. The trooper in the rear with th "fall" collar is wearing the 1902 pattern serge frock.

AlbertJ

Is he perhaps wearing an experimental/trial version of SD, the buttons seem smaller and the serge material thinner, as well as what seems to be the absence of the shoulder reinforcement patches?

If you look close enough, or have Hawthornthwait's book, the shoulder reinforcement is there. I do see it even in the way the photo reproduced and views on-line albeit faintly. It is clear in the book though. The buttons on my frock could have been replaced as they are Queens Crown. I know this style frock to have been in production in 1901, whether or not it was assembled before Victoria's death I can't say with any certainty, however the large buttons have been on there for some time and certainly before I acquired it 20 years ago as they are not the removable type. The serge in the photo doesn't appear any different to me the folds and wrinkling appear like any other serge and not as drill material would wrinkle.
Take another look, let me know if your seeing what I'm seeing. That being said, it could be a trial pattern though, there were several types issued as well as made locally.
AlbertJ

I did not explain myself very well I fear. I have no doubt that your jacket is the genuine article. It was just the B&W photo that looked odd to me with its smaller buttons and I also can not see the shoulder patches, although I do not doubt you when you say that they are there. I shall have to see if I can find Haythornthwaite's book so that I can get a better look.