Officer's Dress For Foreign Service 1896-1902

[Albert J]

The top photo is from the Thomas Pakenham book"The Boer War" page 108, photo from the Hulton-Deutsch collection showing a group of the 3rd Grenadier Guards in a shanty at the Modder River. The second photo is from my collection showing the same group of officer's, now outside the shanty.

Note the varying shades of khaki. While there appears to have been more consistency with the dyeing of cotton drill fabric there is still variances. Exposure to elements in South Africa particularly would have had a drastic effect on garments. With the serge frocks of the time however, we find the greatest latitude in color ranging from a khaki close in color to the cotton garments, to a pea green, a gray green drab, and even a khaki that tends to on the brown side. Add in a life on active service exposed to harsh conditions, and the variance's increase.

The last pic is of a Grenadier Guards officers khaki serge frock. No collar badges or external belt. Stand and fall collar. Cotton lined. Same pocket details as the other Guards frocks illustrated. Buttons aligned in a single row indicating Grenadier Guards. This frock shows much service wear and is another real "been there" piece. The khaki is now faded to an almost mustard color.
Albert J

[Albert J]

Officer's Kd frock, or doublet? This item came to me without any buttons, shoulder titles or regimental indications what so ever. It follows the dress regs 1900 for "English" line regiments, however... the lower front skirt is slightly cut-away indicative of Highland or Lowland Regiments. The frock is with pointed cuffs as opposed to the gauntlet style more commonly associated with Scottish regiments. It would not be uncommon for an officer to replace a worn frock with one from an existing store and in this case have it altered to retain some regimental distinction.

Albert J

[FROGSMILE]

Officer's Kd frock, or doublet? This item came to me without any buttons, shoulder titles or regimental indications what so ever. It follows the dress regs 1900 for "English" line regiments, however... the lower front skirt is slightly cut-away indicative of Highland or Lowland Regiments. The frock is with pointed cuffs as opposed to the gauntlet style more commonly associated with Scottish regiments. It would not be uncommon for an officer to replace a worn frock with one from an existing store and in this case have it altered to retain some regimental distinction.

Albert J

I believe it's a frock rather than a doublet Albert, and I think they tended to have pointed cuffs for most infantry units, although no doubt there will be the occasional variation. You have a great collection. Very interesting.

[GrantRCanada]

My thanks, also, for the photos of items from your KD collection! (Am curious, is 'your' Dundee one of the Canadian places - NS, NB, QC - of that name?)

I too have been struck by the considerable variation in colour/tone of KD tunics/frocks in period photos - especially those of officers - as well as of certain details of construction (pocket flap and collar design, in particular.) The tonal differences are most understandable, I suppose, with officers' private-purchase kit, but what about the stylistic differences? Relaxation of Dress Regs due to war exigencies? Can you offer any comments in that regard?

A few photos I have saved which illustrate:

Unknown ..... apparently mostly Other Ranks .... from various units? -


Officers, 5th Dragoons -


Officers, New Zealand -


Officers, 2nd (Service) Battalion, Royal Canadian Regiment - perhaps the greatest variation Ihave seen in a single photograph ...... which could well be explained by the fact that this unit was composed of officers and men from numerous different Canadian Militia Battalions -

[Albert J]

Hi Grant,

My thanks, also, for the photos of items from your KD collection! (Am curious, is 'your' Dundee one of the Canadian places - NS, NB, QC - of that name?)

I too have been struck by the considerable variation in colour/tone of KD tunics/frocks in period photos - especially those of officers - as well as of certain details of construction (pocket flap and collar design, in particular.) The tonal differences are most understandable, I suppose, with officers' private-purchase kit, but what about the stylistic differences? Relaxation of Dress Regs due to war exigencies? Can you offer any comments in that regard?

As you know tonal differences could be due to a combination of factors...weave of material on hand, was it a tighter weave or looser weave than a previous production run...the dye mix itself...were the garments left in the dye longer or for a shorter amount of time ...is the temperature of the dye the same as the last run. More humidity in the air, time of season. I suggest this, as a printer myself, I understand these environmental effects on printed, dyed, or silk screened product. Today we have more control over our work environment than they did in the late Victorian Era. All factors which control the appearance of the final product to some degree.



With the influx of volunteer battalions being called to Active Service, manufacturing of service uniforms was increased more than average production demands. This need meant that articles would have to be outsourced to keep pace with the demand. Possibly being outsourced without a proper sealed pattern for a particular unit for the new manufacturer to work from.

In the field worn out frocks were replaced by whatever is at hand. A Scottish officer might opt to have an "English" pattern frock cut as a doublet, though not altering the cuffs. I have a few other ranks 1899 pattern two pocket serge frocks, the types with hip pockets only. One of them has a cut-away front. A feature I believe was done in the field.

I know the first contingents of Canadians that went to South Africa during the 2nd ABW complained mightily how their canvas khaki Canadian issue frocks bleached out to almost white. As indicated by a few of the subjects in one of your pics. Subsequently they obtained stocks of British material, the standard British issue Khaki drill frock as well as the 1899 pattern serge frock.

The following pics... Lt. AK Smith, 3rd Volunteer. Battalion Black Watch. Though wearing a kilt, he wears a standard line officer's serge frock with pointed cuffs. The next 2 show the 3rd Active Service Section 2nd Volunteer battalion Royal Highlanders, note the slouch hats, 1899 serge frocks, and Mills Orndorff webbing bandoliers and waist belts, and the 3rd VBBW wearing the 1899 serge frock, '88 pattern valise equipment with '82 pattern pouches, all in a dark leather. Lt. AK Smith seated center. (Smith was wounded at Wittebergen)

Soldiers on active service will always find a way to adapt to circumstances they are presented, with or without regards to dress regulations. The 2nd Anglo Boer War has always fascinated me in the use of some many uniform variations, and is to me the watershed moment in what we consider modern warfare.

AlbertJ


P.S. Grant, thanks for the kind words. By the way... Dundee, Illinois. U.S.A.

[Albert J]

Officer's Kd frock, or doublet? This item came to me without any buttons, shoulder titles or regimental indications what so ever. It follows the dress regs 1900 for "English" line regiments, however... the lower front skirt is slightly cut-away indicative of Highland or Lowland Regiments. The frock is with pointed cuffs as opposed to the gauntlet style more commonly associated with Scottish regiments. It would not be uncommon for an officer to replace a worn frock with one from an existing store and in this case have it altered to retain some regimental distinction.

Albert J

I believe it's a frock rather than a doublet Albert, and I think they tended to have pointed cuffs for most infantry units, although no doubt there will be the occasional variation. You have a great collection. Very interesting.

I agree with Frogsmile that this started life as a typical "British" cut frock. I took the frock off the mannequin and layed it on the floor and photographed it. It was hanging too loosely for the the photo to show what I'm accustomed to seeing and why I suggest "Scottish" my apologies. It does though appear to have a cut-away front, leading me to think a field modification. Jock had a photo posted in another thread regarding the color of a foreign service helmet worn by the Scottish Rifles, as I recall the subject was wearing a similar cut frock.
AlbertJ

[Jocktamson]

Absolutely outstanding....excellent photos and makes it doubly interesting when you have the Information to hand on some of your collection....I am going green with envy!

[GrantRCanada]

Albert:

Very nice shots of Royal Highlanders ..... presumably prior to embarkation .... or soon after arrival in South Africa. (I have always thought the Highlanders fitted out with slouch hats looked ...... well, odd! )

At any rate, as was true of most British Empire troops, they didn't look quite so natty after some time on the veldt:

Sergeant Johnstone and Section at Wilgo Bridge


(And no sign of cutaway skirts on these frocks/tunics. Looks like even the chap second from the right just has the skirts gaping open a bit in front.)

[FROGSMILE]

Albert:

And no sign of cutaway skirts on these frocks/tunics. Looks like even the chap second from the right just has the skirts gaping open a bit in front.

Forgive me if I am teaching you to suck eggs Grant, but cutaway fronts on khaki serge frocks were not 'issued', as in government manufactured, until the smarter cut SD (more fitted) was introduced in the early 1920s. In both, the 2nd Anglo/Boer War and WW1, the effect was achieved by battalion tailors. Even as late as 1914, at least one of the two BW battalions had not bothered to do this.

[Albert J]

With the influx of volunteer battalions being called to Active Service, manufacturing of service uniforms was increased more than average production demands. This need meant that articles would have to be outsourced to keep pace with the demand. Possibly being outsourced without a proper sealed pattern for a particular unit for the new manufacturer to work from.

In the field worn out frocks were replaced by whatever is at hand. A Scottish officer might opt to have an "English" pattern frock cut as a doublet, though not altering the cuffs. I have a few other ranks 1899 pattern two pocket serge frocks, the types with hip pockets only. One of them has a cut-away front. A feature I believe was done in the field. .

I agree with Frogsmile that the 1899 o/r's pattern serge was not issued in a doublet style for Scottish regiments. Those that we see in photos were altered in the field, or at the battalions depot prior to embarkation.

I know we're getting off the original topic of Officer's , but I believe this is relevant information as officer's certainly would have worn o/r's frocks during the 2nd ABW. So here's a couple more pics for comparison.

The top photo shows two o/r's 1899 pattern serge frocks. Note the difference in the shades of khaki. Both were manufactured in 1899. The drab one on the left is as it would have been issued, as per the sealed pattern, to the rank and file. The one on the right has been field altered to a highland cut. Both have the typical waxed cotton pocket lining, and seam tape used in the period. The drab serge retains the field dressing pocket and ID pocket , while the "Scottish" cut one lacks the field dressing and ID pocket simply because of the "alteration.

Albert J

[GrantRCanada]

Gentlemen:

To be quite honest, I was not aware that a "Scottish cutaway" version was not immediately available when khaki frocks came upon the scene .... nor that it was so late that such an item was provided "off the shelf".

I am primarily a collector and shooter of late 19th century firearms (mainly military) who has essentially "backed into" an admittedly imperfect grasp of Victorian-era uniforms and such in conjunction with that interest. In other words, I am not even engaged in military re-enactment in the organized sense, but rather acquire and wear appropriate garb for the period shooting activities I am involved in - such as those held under the auspices of the "Grand Army of the Frontier" (which evolved from Cowboy Action Shooting.) I try to "get things right" if possible, but certainly welcome ongoing learning opportunities. While we are on the topic of Scottish-cut frock/tunic alterations, here is a photo of one of my early late-Victorian "looks" - for which I altered a 20th-century style (i.e. open collar) KD cutaway from What Price Glory. (As may be evident, I have been valiantly endeavoring to represent the British Empire within a group almost exclusively composed of Americans!)



At any rate, I certainly appreciate the information! As often observed, the ongoing learning opportunities are the main benefit of forums such as this.

[Albert J]

Grant you certainly strike the image of an Victorian officer!

Let me clarify something when I refer to KD.... Khaki drill being the reference to the material..drill- a stout durable cotton fabric with strong bias (diagonal) in the weave. Serge- A twilled cloth of worsted and wool.

The Khaki drill of the period was issued to Highland units in a doublet form, ie, cutaway front and gauntlet cuffs. However the 1899 pattern Serge frock had no considerations for Highland units, thus, was universal.

Albert J

[acanthus]

Hi AlbertJ,

Really magnificent collection, enjoyed viewing very much and nice to see some sets of early leather equipment.

[GrantRCanada]

Albert:

Thank you for that clarification. Although cognizant of the distinction between khaki drill and serge, I wasn't clear on the point you have just made (... and neglected to ask. ) Are you (or anyone else following this thread) aware of any suppliers of a decent reproduction P'1899 khaki serge frock? I have actually held off on any attempt to acquire such an item because I was of the view that I would likely feel obliged to purchase two - i.e. one for use in a Highland impression and another for my other Boer War era impression mentioned below - but now realize that I could likely make one frock do for both!

In the course of my (relatively haphazard) acquisitions of various articles of uniform, I have certainly become quite cautious regarding the use of the descriptive term "khaki" by American producers/suppliers - who apply it to what I (and most of us, I'm sure) would call "olive drab". This even extended to the Canadian-based "Quartermaster" of the Baden-Powell Scouts of Canada (part of a loose world-wide organization of those who decry the "unisexing" and "modernization" of Scouting, and have re-instituted a "boys only" format employing more traditional uniform and such.) Among other things, they offer economical peaked stetsons of the type which became emblematic of Canadian Mounted Rifles during the Anglo-Boer War, and which Baden-Powell liked so much - first for the South African Constabulary and then the Boy Scouts. I was putting together a CMR/SAC-type impression and, without sufficient thought, ordered the version they described as "khaki" - but which turned out to be a very pronounced dark olive drab. I had to order what they termed "butternut" to get the more appropriate colour seen here -

[Albert J]

Hi Grant,

I wouldn't know where to begin to make a recommendation on a replica serge frock, but I don't doubt it could be made. As far as your Highland Impression, it could go either way.

Attached is a photo from the A. Spencer Collection showing Three Highland officer's in South Africa that might help with your decision. Two Captains and a Staff officer. The Captain at the left is wearing the o'r's 1899 pattern serge frock. The Captain in the middle is wearing Khaki drill in a Highland cut, with gauntlet cuffs. The Staff officer on the right is wearing khaki drill, with a highland cut front, but with pointed cuffs.....and Trews! I believe that when the HLI, and Cameronians, arrived in SA all ranks were wearing trews until ample supplies of khaki trousers arrived.

Albert J